Grand Old Venice – Dolly Travels

St. Mark's Square - Venice Venice is like no other city in the world. The buildings are old and some in dire need of repair, yet these buildings seem to hold their grandeur from centuries ago, much like an aged dowager, wearing the same clothing that gave her a sense of glamour in the olden days. Some of the old palazzos have been restored while others seem to be willing to sink into the depths of the canals, content with their appearance, and in no rush to die. The most famous of all Venice sights is St. Mark’s Square, with the flamboyant church at its center, the Doge’s Palace at the eastern side and of course, all the very expensive restaurants around the perimeter. Although the pigeons are a nuisance, people still feed them, hold food in their hands while someone takes a picture of the birds eating out of their hands. Feeding the birds is against the law but the practice continues. We enjoyed a day of walking around this area and a bit further afield. This is the only city that I can say for a fact, where most of the tourists that we encounter, at some time during the day, will have a confused look on their faces as they stop, look at a map, look up at the sky or at the buildings, then turn around and go back the way they came. I do not usually enjoy seeing others in an uncomfortable position; however, I have been in those same circumstances more times than I want to recall. I am just happy that I have company in my “lostness”. Getting lost in Venice is normal. Venice is a city with no cars, motor scooters or even bicycles. One gets to where they want to be by foot or by water. There are so many little bridges over many small, winding canals. This is a delightful city in which to walk. Some little corners are so picturesque. As we were wandering around close to lunchtime, we stopped to look at the menu posted for a restaurant on a busy piazza. I said, “This is too much food for lunch.” The waiter at the door then told us that the same restaurant had a light lunch restaurant right next door. He walked us over there, and we were taken into a lovely quiet garden area. We had a delightful lunch and lingered there, talking, drinking our wine, for almost two hours. It was an enjoyable afternoon. I treasure these times, and will keep them in my memory bank, as I know I will never find this place again. We have just one day left here in Venice, then we will be off on some more adventures. I trust that you have enjoyed visiting Venice with us. You didn’t even get lost, did you? Ciao for now, Dolly

By Dolly Goolsby – Full Story at Dolly Travels

Venice Gay Travel Resources

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Amalfi Coast – Carlos Melia

Amalfi Coast - Carlos Melia My day took me from my base at Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria in Sorrento, all the way to Ravello and back along the stunning panoramic road of the Amalfi Coast, with stops in Amalfi, Praiano and Positano. From the distance, I was also able to catch a view of Maiori and Minori, and drive by Atrani, which I thought I was very charismatic. Amalfi Coast - Carlos MeliaDriving along the Amalfi Coast for us was rather easy, since we were there during the off-season, but during Summer time you better be patient. Distances are not to long, I mean from town to town, there is 25 to 30 minutes drive, without traffic. First stop was Ravello, which is the furthest point I have explored Amalfi Coast. I only did a quick overview, since I would be staying later during the week, for a night at Belmond Hotel Caruso. So I will leave this open to my next upcoming post. But most definetely a MUST visit. Amalfi Coast - Carlos MeliaLunch at Trattoria pizzeria Cumpa Cosimo was just perfect. Unlike many other dinning experiences I had during my time at the Amalfi Coast, it was very local, rustic, grewat Italian food and and very charismatic owner and Chef Netta Bottone, who tours the tables to ensure her clients are content. Her family has owned this cantina for more than 75 of its 300. Not only I tried her cooking, but also got plenty of love and kisses from her. ADORABLE. Next stop was Amalfi, a brief walk around, at the foot of Monte Cerreto. The town of Amalfi was the capital of the maritime republic. Amalfi is included in the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The highlight other than the spectacular panoramic views, which you will find all along the way, is the Amalfi Cathedral di Sant’Andrea. Next stop, for many, the star of the Amalfi Coast, beautiful – but very crowded and over the top touristy – Positano. I mean, it is GORGEOUS, the views are all you would expect when visitin the Amalfi Coast and more, now it is very hectic and happening. I came to do a walk around Le Sirenuse Hotel, and I deeply fall in love with the property, the panoramic views and the lovely Michelin starred restaurant La Sponda. I was so pleased, that right away booked my clients there for their upcoming Summer stay in Positano. Dinner was at this quaint ristorante called KASAI, in Praiano. Again, just what I needed, great local food and great company, along the owner of the restaurant and my new – fabulous and fun friend – Fiona Fava. Lots of loval delights and even more bottles of local white wine. Literally eating and drinking my way across Italy. This was my full day discovering the many charming towns of the Amalfi Coast.

By Carlos Melia – Full Story at the Carlos Melia Blog

Campania Gay Travel Resources

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Exploring Pompeii in Two Hours – Carlos Melia

Pompeii - Carlos Melia Pompeii, along with Herculaneum and many villas in the surrounding area, was mostly destroyed and buried under 13 to 20 ft of volcanic ash in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79. Pompei - Carlos MeliaIf you are staying either in the Amalfi Coast or Naples, it is an easy and interesting half day experience. In my case I did it after checking out my hotel in Sorrento – Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, and on my way to my next destination in Ravello. BTW both scenic drives – Sorrento to Pompeii along the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii to Ravello through the montains, were breathtaking. Mind I was there during off-seasons, therefore my drives were approx. one hour each way. During high season, drives might take up to 3 hours each way. By the time of its destruction, 160 years later, its population was estimated at 11,000 people, and the city had a complex water system, an amphitheatre, gymnasium, and a port. The eruption destroyed the city, killing its inhabitants and burying it under tons of ash. The objects that lay beneath the city have been preserved for centuries because of the lack of air and moisture. These artifacts provide an extraordinarily detailed insight into the life of a city during the Pax Romana. Pompeii - Carlos MeliaDuring the excavation, plaster was used to fill in the voids in the ash layers that once held human bodies. This allowed one to see the exact position the person was in when he or she died. My favorite part of my visit, with my private guide, was visiting the houses – like Casa del Menandro, learning about their ways of leaving, preserved mosaics and frescos, and the intricated and advsnced hydraulic system and impluvium. The impluvium is the sunken part of the atrium in a Greek or Roman house (domus). Designed to carry away the rainwater coming through the compluvium of the roof.

By Carlos Melia – Full Story at the Carlos Melia Blog

Campania Gay Travel Resources

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Ah, Firenze! – Dolly Travels

Duomo - FlorenceYes! We are in Firenze….that is Florence, in English. Florence is my favorite city in Italy. Although I do enjoy being in most of the other Italian cities, Florence is the place where I feel like I have come home again. Florence is not as big as Rome, and its historical treasures are more recent than Rome’s. While Rome was the center of civilization in its time, Florence is the birthplace of the Renaissance; art, literature, music, the architecture of the grand palaces are the treasures here. We had reservations at the Accademia Galleria for 9:00 a.m. Last Friday. We got there early and the guard let us in. We had the place almost to ourselves for twenty minutes or more. We were able to see Michelangelo’s “David” without so many other tourists in the hall. I have seen this statue many times, but I never get tired of looking at that guy. The workmanship still amazes me. The muscles of his torso and limbs are so well defined. The veins in his hands, arms and feet stand out. I know I could start an IV in that right hand without a problem. Then there is the Duomo. We walked past here our first night back in Florence. The beauty of this cathedral still brings tears to my eyes. Our apartment is not far from the Duomo, so we walk past it every day. However, this nighttime view is one of my favorites. Only a few people were out that night and there was no traffic. Our view was unobstructed as we walked around the church. Getting around Florence by foot is really quite simple. Florence is not hilly like Rome, and most of the must-see sights are within a short walking distance from the center of the old city. Piazzale Michelangelo is one exception, though. It sits high on a hill, overlooking the Arno River. Getting there is quite a hike; however, the views from the piazza are worth the trip. If one really doesn’t want to walk up the hill, city buses make that trip frequently. The white church on the hill is San Miniato, just above Piazzale Michelangelo. Today we outdid ourselves. This is our last full day in Florence. We started our day early, getting to the Uffizi Gallery for our 9:00 appointment by 8:20. Once again, we were early, and the door guard let us in. The Uffizi has the largest collection of Italian art in the world, so going there is a must. We went straight to the Botticelli room, as that room can get so crowded that it is impossible to see anything. After two hours in the Uffizi, we went to the Bargello Gallery then to Santa Croce church, where many famous Florentines are interred. Among them: Leonardo di Vinci, Michelangelo, Galileo, Macchiavelli, the composer Rossini, plus a large monument to Dante Allegheri, father of the Italian language, though he is not buried here. Frank wanted to go to our favorite leather shop, so we did that. Frank made a purchase and we visited with the owner, who, like several others in Florence, have become our friends. So now we are going to relax for a bit, then prepare dinner, as our friends, Massimo and Magda, are coming here for dinner. Tomorrow we will leave Florence and go to Venice for a few days. Our trip is going by quickly. There is always some place that we want to see that has to be bypassed, as we simply run out of time. However, life is good. Being in Italy is indeed “la dolce vita”, the sweet life. Until next time, Ciao for now, Dolly

By Dolly Goolsby – Full Story at Dolly Travels

Florence Gay Travel Resources

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Capri, Anacapri and Monte Solaro – In the Footsteps of an Emperor

Capri - Carlos Melia Emperor Augustus might have been the first to land in Capri, but I was determined to conquer my day experience exploring the Island upside down in five hours. so I had to commit to my pace, and have a quick glimpse of the main atractions. and of course, find an amazing local restaurant to enjoy true Italian flair. This was my first time visit to Capri. For those of you unfamiliar with the island, it is divided in three regions, by elevations – Capri, Anacapri and Monte Solaro. How do you get from one point to the other on the Island of Capri? There are four main modes of transportation: bus or taxi, funicular, single chairlift and if you have the time… by foot. You can also read more tips and recommendations by checking and following me on Instagram to see all my past-current-future posts and experiences while in Italy. Capri, an island in Italy’s Gulf of Naples, is famed for its rugged landscape, upscale beach resorts and high-end shops selling handmade leather sandals and signature limoncello liqueur. One of its best-known natural sites is the Blue Grotto, a dark cavern where the sea glows electric blue, the result of sunlight passing through an underwater cave. ( Which you nay or not be able to visit due to weather conditions, winds and tides. In my case I just didn’t have time to do it). Capri - Carlos MeliaAfter a lovely breakfast at my hotel in Sorrento, the Grand Excelsior Vittoria, we went down the private elevator and passage to Marina Piccola, to board the Jetboat that in just 15 to 20 minutes, accross the Bay of Naples, would have us at the very lovely Capri. Another way, as I usually plan it for my clients, I to rent a private yacht for the day, to enjoy a full day sailing, stopping at Fontelina Beach Club and Restaurant and so forth. Upon arrival to Capri, at Marina Grande, we disembarked, and right away took the Funicolare that would take us on an uphill beautiful scenic ride through lemon groves to the heart and main Piazzetta of Capri. Capri itself is charming, but quite frankly wasn’t the highlight of my visit. It is very commercial and overcrowded with tourists that flock for the day. And I was there during off peak season. One thing I truly enjoyed, was the bruef visit to Giardini Augusto. The Gardens of Augustus, originally known by the name of Krupp Gardens, are botanical gardens with breathtaking 180-degree panoramic views of the island of Capri, Mount Solaro, the bay of Marina Piccola, and the Faraglioni. Of course I could not help myself being me, and I had to stop and check some hotels while there. I came to visit the following: Quisisana Hotel ( which I found lovely, but not quite the island experience I would go for ). A refreshing stop for a Lemonade at Jacky Bar at the Tiberio Palace Hotel. Unfortunately, I did not have time to see the JK Place Capri, but you most definetely should keep it in mind. Capri - Carlos MeliaI was ready to move on the a higher altitude, and away from the hordes of tourist, onwards to Anacapri. There are three ways, again to get there, bus, taxi and walking. Of course I took a taxi – ha ha – which was approx. EUR 20 each way. Of course, I did not have much time, so I had toprioritize. First stop was lunch at Barbarossa Ristorante – for a fabulous and simple, local Italian lunch. After so many days of Michelin starred dinning experiences, going local was just what I wanted. After lunch, I took a stroll around Anacapri, and off to the last destination on my exploration of Capri, and I must say, was my favorite. Mount Solaro, the highest point in Capri, accesible by single chairlifts or by a long panoramic hike. The views are spectacular over to the NW of the Tyrrhenian sea, the gulf of Naples. Up the mount there is a statue of Emperor Augustus who first landed on Capri. 5PM was time to say GOODBYE to Capri, and head back to Sorrento and to Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, to get ready for our evening out in town and dinner at Michelin starred restaurant Il Buco Ristorante.

By Carlos Melia – Full Story at the Carlos Melia Blog

Campania Gay Travel Resources

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Italy's Reggio Emilia

reggio-emilia Situated in Northern Italy, in the Po Valley, at about 50 km from Bologna, on the Via Emilia, Reggio Emilia borders Parma’s territory to the west and Modena’s territory to the east. In the north, the River Po separates its territory from the province of Mantua, while in the south the Apennines mark the border with Liguria and Tuscany. Why Visit Reggio, also known as the Tricolour town, because it was here that the future Italian flag was adopted for the first time in 1797, has an ancient history: In the 11th century, the town was the heart of Matilde’s county in the neighbouring territory. Later, important figures marked its Renaissance, ranging from Boiardo to Ariosto, the great poet of The Orlando Furioso. On the Table Do not leave the town without tasting and buying the excellent delicacies of its gastronomy: the cappelletti or caplett, the Parmesan cheese, the seasonings and the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar. In the town bakeries, it is possible to find the erbazzone and the chizze, in the pastry shops, the spongata, the traditional rice cake and the biscione.

By Gareth Johnson – Full Story at Gay Star News

Emilia Romagna Gay Travel Resources

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A Layover in Milan – Carlos Melia

Carlos Melia - Milan I was invited by Emirates Airlines to try their new non-stop flight from New York to Milan, Italy on their Business Class, so I decided to pit together a 10 days itinerary exploring Italy, which took me to my first visit to the Amalfi Coast, onwards to yet another lovely visit to Venice and to London, aboard the overnight luxury train Venice Simplon Orient-Express. Since I have not been in Milan for quite sometime, I’ve decided to take a suite for the day at the gorgeous Mandarin Oriental Milan, and explore a few higlights, after a lovely and relaxed lunch. Here are my comments, photos and videos. Hope you enjoy my post on this experience. So I flew Emirates Airlines, non-stop from New York JFK to Milano Malpensa. It was on their Airbus 380, and it took approximately 7 hours, which went by very quickly. Meal service consisted by drinks at the onboard lounge bar, followed by a three-course dinner. One hour upon arrival, breakfast was served. Great entertaiment system, screen, movie selection, headseats. Full flat – comfortable – bed, as a matter of fact I passed out for 3 hours on it, and I rarely sleep when flying into Europe from New York. My only comment would be the crew. Compared to other similar airlines, I felt they weren’t that friendly, engaging nor attentive to service, which in the end makes it for the entire experience, doesn’t it?. Regardless, the best option, today, to fly non-stop from New York to Milan. Upon arrival to Milan Malpensa, I had my VIP Service and Transfer, by Milano Luxury Services. A Mercedez E-Class and private chauffer that in no time, had me at my hotel in the heart of Milan. Mind I was in Milan, only for six hours, connecting flights to the Amalfi Coast, each minute counted. When I travel overseas, and have connecting flights, I usually enjoy taking a hotel room at the connecting destination, and exploring for a few hours. In this case, I landed in Milan at noon, and my flight to Naples, was at 8PM. Giving me plenty of time to enjoy my gorgeous suite at the Mandarin Oriental Milan, have a nice lunch at the Mandarin Bar and Bistro by Michelin star awarded and acclaimed Chef Antonio Guida. At the Mandarin Oriental Milan, I checked in at the fabulous Milano Suite, decorated in true Milanese style, dedicated to the designer Piero Fornasetti – was an Italian painter, sculptor, interior decorator and engraver. The Milano Suite is located on the second floor of the hotel, also known as the ‘noble’ floor because of its high ceilings and abundant natural light. Furnished with original Fornasetti pieces, accommodation consists of a living area, bedroom, master bathroom and a separate guest bathroom. The living room is divided by a pillar, adorned with wallpaper aptly named ‘Riflesso’ (reflection), with the ‘Ultime Notizie’ table and ‘Capitello’ chairs in the dining area, and the ‘Fly’ coffee table, ‘Guscio’ sofa and ‘Boss’ black leather armchair on the other side. Accessed via a corridor with its ‘Architettura’ console table, the king size bedroom is dressed with ‘Chiavi Segrete’ wallpaper and furnished with a writing desk, a small table from the ‘Farfalle’ collection and two large interfacing mirrors. A vast ensuite bathroom features a walk-in shower, twin vanity unit and a much-admired ‘Spoon XL’ bathtub from Agape. After a lovely shower and a glas of local chilled white wine, I joined the General Manager and Public Relations team, for a relaxed lunch at the colorfull Mandarin Bar & Bistro. Mandarin Bar offers a seductive mix of contemporary music, delicious dishes and bespoke cocktails. The black and white marble mosaic covered floor and walls combined with a large central bar and eclectic mix of furniture creates the perfect backdrop for drinking and dining. Catering both to guests and the city’s discerning style crowd, Mandarin Bar enjoys a relaxed atmosphere with three distinctive areas; the bar bistro, an inside lounge and an outside courtyard area featuring lounge sofas, tables, cabanas and soft lights. The bar bistro menu features a mix of Italian dishes, salads and Antonio Guida’s reinterpretation of traditional sandwiches, served with a modern twist. The octopus was delicious, and the Tiramisu, was totally worth of each calorie. I followed with a quick tour and walk around the entire property, including Entry Level Rooms, Presidential Suite, spa, fitness center and funtion rooms. With an enviable central location, Mandarin Oriental, Milan is a 5-star luxury hotel, just steps from La Scala. And with spacious rooms, elegant suites, innovative dining and a fabulous spa, we are the perfect urban retreat. With interiors by acclaimed Italian designer Antonio Citterio, their 104 rooms and suites exude a wonderful sense of luxury. What I liked the most, is how cozy and private the whole experience felt. Given the privileged location, I decided to go for a two hours walked around the area, and visit the Duomo, La Scala, Via Montenapoleone, and Via della Spiga, Milan’s most exclusive shopping streets, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Sforza Castle and Santa Maria delle Grazie, which hosts Leonardo Da Vinci’s “The Last Supper”. By 5.30PM – sharply – I was ready to continue my journey onwards to the Amalfi Coast. Once again my private car and chauffer by Milano Luxury Services, took me – this time to Linate Airport, to board my Alitalia flight to Naples. This was my fantastic six hours layover in Milan.

By Carlos Melia – Full Story at the Carlos Melia Blog

Milan Gay Travel Resources

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Eating in Italy – Dolly Travels

pasta pastaPasta is the queen. As we were walking through our neighborhood the other night, we came upon this display in a kitchen store. I love it! Obviously, her hair is spaghetti, her skirt is made of penne pasta, the belt is coils of angel hair pasta, and her bracelet is red chili peppers. In Italy, every region has their own pasta specialty. I found the one constant spice is red chili flakes or red chili pepper pods. Garlic, of course, is a frequent ingredient in pasta dishes, but it is not in every dish. Some pasta sauces are so delicate that garlic would overwhelm the flavor. Other bolder dishes demand many cloves of this pungent ingredient. I started asking different local people about a particular pasta dish that is ubiquitous in Rome, a simple pasta sauce called Amatriciana. Sometimes that is spelled with 2 m’s. The spelling of the word was only the beginning of the controversy surrounding this sauce. The first controversy I encountered was the origin of the dish. While Roman restaurants say that this is a Roman specialty, the dish actually originated in the town of Amatrici, in northern Lazio area, Lazio is the region that includes Rome, but Amatrici is a small city in central Italy in the Appenines mountain range. People of Amatrici do not take kindly to Romans referring to this as a “Roman specialty. Then I found more controversies. Really, now, would we fight over whether to use garlic, onion, or leave them out or will we become angry If the chef tops the pasta with Parmigiano cheese versus Pecorino? Apparently, Amatricians would. I became very careful, after that, about asking questions concerning specialties. I did find, however, that almost every Italian will be willing to beat me about the head and shoulders if I mentioned Alfredo sauce. “Non Italiano”, was the universal reply, usually accompanied by a sneer and a glare. Alfredo sauce was apparently a culinary creation of a Roman chef, named Alfredo, naturally, created by him to impress some Hollywood movie stars many years ago, Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford. These two enjoyed the dish so much that they presented Chef Alfredo with a golden fork and spoon. The closest one can get to having Alfredo sauce in Italy is pasta carbonara, spaghetti mixed with diced pancetta, raw egg beaten into the sauce , then lots of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese mixed into the pasta. When we were in Sorrento, seafood ruled the menu, and rightfully so. At Ristorante Delfino, I had a pasta called calamarata, as it looks like calamari rings, with shrimp, clams, zucchini, cherry tomatoes in a slightly spicy clear sauce. Frank was enjoying spaghetti alla vongole, spaghetti with clams. All sorts of seafood abound on the menus on the coast. They are so delicious, so fresh, right from the sea, and prepared by a talented chef. Antonio, at Delfino’s, is one of the best chefs in this area. Today, we are in Florence, encountering an unsuspected rainy day, so Chef Dolly decided it was a good day to make soup. I have made many meals in this kitchen over the years, and I am in heaven having the opportunity to cook here once again. One of the things I love about shopping for food here is that I can go to the supermarket, go to the produce department, pick up a packet of soup mix. This container will have 2 carrots, 3 or 4 stalks of celery, one or 2 small onions and some parsley, for a cost of about [euro]1. That is the starter for my soup. I then add some chicken, fennel, zucchini. At the end, I add tortellini. Now I have a marvelous soup, a perfect lunch dish for a rainy afternoon. While we waited for the soup to finish cooking, we had a little appetizer. Frank had gone to the store, brought home a fresh baquette, still warm from the oven, and a bottle of Chianti. We had cheese, prosciutto and olives to round out the aperitivo. (An aside here: the Chianti was on sale for [euro]6. The bread cost less than [euro]1. Good wine and bread are so inexpensive here. Right now, the currency exchange rate is $1 = [euro]. 90. [euro]6 was about $6.60 ) In a future blog post, I will continue with foods of the different regions, as well as the many controversies over food preparation. Italians are very food oriented and proud of their regional specialties, so I must be sure to get my facts straight. I will try to do that as I eat my way through Italy. Ciao for now, Dolly

By Dolly Goolsby – Full Story at Dolly Travels

Italy Gay Travel Resources

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More Adventures in Rome – Dolly Travels

Ostia Antica Rome is such an interesting place to be; so much to see and do that we are out and about early every day. We stop at a bar for cappuchini and pastries, go to our selected site for the day, then we usually return to the apartment for an hour or so of relaxing and resting before we go out again. We have seen so many ancient sites during this stay in Rome. I never get tired of coming back and seeing them again. There is so much history here that it seems incongruous to see busy boulevards running alongside ancient ruins. Traffic is ridiculously chaotic, tourists are everywhere, although it is fairly early in the vacation season. Being a pedestrian, I know I take my life in my hands every time I cross the street; however, there are very few accidents. It is exciting to be part of the melee. We went to Castel Sant’ Angelo, which is connected to the Vatican by an elevated walkway, to provide an escape for the Pope, in the event the Vatican was threatened. I do not believe the walkway has been used in the past few centuries. The structure was built by the Emperor Hadrian in the year A.D. 139, to be used as his tomb. Other emperors are also buried here. PantheonAnd the Pantheon. Another amazing structure built centuries ago and still standing and secure. We walked around the entire structure the other day, and to see such a huge edifice with the original small bricks used in building it, was quite awe-inspiring. Our last day in Rome we went out to the ancient city of Ostia Antica. This had been a thriving seaport city more than 2,000 years ago. Merchandise was offloaded from ships, taken to warehouses, then put on smaller boats and taken up the Tiber River to Rome. Somehow, the Tiber River changed course, and that meant the demise of this city. Some of the remains of the Baths of Neptune in Ostia Antica. Apparently, the people of this city were very athletic. We saw mosaic floors depicting wrestlers, as well as large fields that had been used for games. There was also a theater, built in the same design as the Colosseum in Rome. Each of these places deserves far more explanation and exploration. I was continually in awe of the engineering, the architecture and the building of these ancient places. But, as a grand finale, there is a gelato waiting at the end of the tour. I will say Arriverderci for now, as we are leaving Rome. Our next stop is Florence, my favorite city. I will try to keep up with the posting better. Ciao for now, Dolly

By Dolly Goolsby – Full Story at Dolly Travels

Rome Gay Travel Resources

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Rome – The Eternal City

Piazza Navona Once again, we returned to Rome. We arrived on Sunday afternoon. We found our apartment, which is very near Campo di Fiori, one of my favorite places in Rome. This piazza has been a fruit and vegetable market area for centuries. Now there are more booths selling touristy spice packages, pasta and other food souvenirs, but the fresh fruit stands and vegetable stands are still thriving. As well as the central portion of the piazza housing the fruit and vegetable market, all around the perimeter of the piazza are cafes and restaurants. Street musicians come out in the evening, and some of them are quite talented. About 4:00 in the afternoon, all these stands come down, the owners of the stands cart away their produce, the shelves, everything. These people have to store their equipment in sheds around the area. After all this merchandise and equipment has been taken away, the street cleaners come in and by 5:00 the piazza is clean and empty. Then Happy Hour begins. (My term, not theirs.). Cafes have drink specials and light food fare. The street musicians start their serenades, people come from everywhere to enjoy this atmosphere. By 7:00 p.m., the cafes and restaurants start their dinner service. Later, the party crowd comes in, and we can hear the chatter, the noise, the sound of people enjoying theirselves for hours. In the morning the piazza needs cleaning again, so the street cleaners are there again, getting everything clean and ready for the fruit and vegetable vendors to set up their operations one more time. To me, this cooperation of the vendors, the restaurants, the city street cleaners simply amazing. I enjoy staying I this area because of the bohemian atmosphere. I do wish I were young enough to stay out and enjoy some of the evening entertainment, but alas, that is not to be. By the time we finish our dinner, around 8:30 p.m., I am ready to go back to the apartment and relax. Many of the fruit vendors are foreigners, not Italians, and are very hard workers. This morning I watched two of the vendors as they brought their canopies and produce to the piazza. I heard a sound as if someone was revving up a motorcycle, I looked out our window and saw one vendor who was driving a very loaded small Ape truck, trying to hitch another vendor’s loaded push cart. These 2 guys had tied a rope to the cart and the back of the truck, but an Ape truck does not have the power to handle that much weight. They finally gave up: the man with the truck took his load into the piazza and the man with the push cart had to continue pushing by hand. For those of you who have not heard me talk about Ape trucks, I will explain. These are tiny little vehicles, built for the tiny alleys, hill roads of Italy. They have a motorcycle engine, a cab big enough for one person and a tiny truck bed. They look like toys. We went to the Piazza Navona, with its fountains designed by Bernini, my favorite Italian sculptor. This is another area that is perfect for people watching. We walked from Piazza Navona to Trevi Fountain, going past the Pantheon, St. Ignacio church, down the Via Corso, over to the fountain. This is another Bernini masterpiece. The fountain has just been re-opened, after being cleaned and repaired for the past 2 years. Tradition says that if you throw a coin into the fountain, you will return to Rome. Both Frank and I did this, and I am sure we will return, We followed some back streets and found another favorite restaurant, the Abruzzi, and had our dinner there, then walked back to our apartment, joining many other people out enjoying the balmy Rome evening. I will end this blog post now, although I have only covered our first day back in Rome. I have so much to talk about, way too much for one blog post. I am sure that you have noticed, perhaps counted, how many times I have used the word “favorite” in this post. Rome is magical; therefore, there are many places here that have become favorites. If you have been to Rome, you will understand. If you have not been here, I strongly encourage you to visit. Who knows? If you ask me, I might come along with you. Stay tuned. You will hear more from me soon. I am not finished with Rome yet. Ciao for now, Dolly

By Dolly Goolsby – Full Story at Dolly Travels

Rome Gay Travel Resources

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