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CasaDelMaya, May 6th, 2013
Summer is here and what better time to visit Mérida, Mexico to tour some of the wonderful cenotes that dot the landscape around the city. These wonderful sinkholes, each one with its own special feel, provide ample opportunity to relax, cool off, and enjoy one another’s company as you escape the heat of summer.
Over 3,000 cenotes dot the Yucatan peninsula. These swimming holes have been used by locals and visitors alike for hundreds of years. Some cenotes are just a few feet below the surface and resemble sunken lakes or a pond. Others are much deeper and require some climbing to reach the cool water. Still others require diving under a stone wall or archway to reach them. And many have been outfitted with ladders and even concrete stairs to facilitate reaching them easily. Whatever your adventure level, you will find a cenote just right for you. Here are just a few of the cenotes reachable in a day trip from Mérida.
Cenote Chelentun
With wonderfully clear, blue water, Chelentun, located in the town of Cuzamá, has stalactites and stalagmites adding to its beauty. Also in Cuzamá are the cenotes Chansinic’che and Bolonchoojol. All are worth at least seeing if not taking the time to swim in.
Valladolid
Several accessible cenotes are located in and around the town of Valladolid, south of Mérida. Right in the center of town is Zaci, very popular for swimming and relaxing. An eyeless black fish, the lub, swims along with you in Zaci. For a fun day, rent bikes in the center of town and bike to two cenotes, X’Keken and Samula, located across the road from each other in the village of Dzitnup.
Cenotillo
This little village sports more than 150 cenotes. You can hire a local guide to take you to one or several of them.
Xlacah
Just north of Mérida is Xlacah, on the Mayan site of Dzibichaltún. This cenote is at ground level and a treat for swimmers. At 140 feet deep at one end, it’s a great way to cool off after a hot day climbing the pyramids at Dzibichaltún.
Kankirixche
This cenote attracts snorkelers and scuba divers exploring its crystal clear waters.
These are only a few of the many opportunities to take a dip in a cenote around Mérida. Come explore and decide for yourself which is the best.
Jordy and his partner, Steve, welcome guests to Casa Del Maya Bed & Breakfast in Mérida, Mexico. Their six rooms offer pasta tile floors, talavera sinks, air conditioning, pool, full breakfast, and much more, all centrally located for easy access to Mérida attractions and the Mayan ruin sites of Chichen Itza, Mayapan, Uxmal, Ek Balam, area cenotes, Celestun, Progreso, and many others. For information and reservations, visit www.CasaDelMaya.com.
Categories: Gay Travel, Mexico Tags: B&B, Cenote, Merida, Mexico, yucatan | 
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CasaDelMaya, March 28th, 2013
When we needed shower shelves for our B&B, my partner, Steve, and I hopped a city bus for the nearby pueblo of Dzitya. A friend told us that Dzitya was the place to go if you wanted anything in stone. How right he was. What our friend didn’t know was that you can find another one of those incredible “Cocina Economicas” (inexpensive kitchen) you find everywhere in Merida. This one would give us the most “local” experience ever.
We got off the bus at a corner, on a street where are located about a dozen little shops selling their stone wares. They all seemed very quiet and we wondered whether they were even open. Ahead we saw a little more action: dogs wandering the street, children riding bikes, and a few cars parked on the side of the road. Birds chirped in the trees and a woman in a ragged jumper watched it all from her front door. We headed in that direction.
As we rounded a corner onto the dusty road that passed the town square (one of the things I love about the Yucatan is how every town, no matter how small, has a town square), we began to pass a few small, old stone houses. The last one before the square had a large covered carport attached to the side. Billows of smoke rose up to the roof and flowed under until it found its way to freedom. It carried with it the most delicious aroma of pollo (chicken). We stopped to see a woman grilling maybe a dozen chickens on her barrel grill, with abuela (grandmother) seated near the entrance overlooking the operation. Behind them were four plastic Coca-Cola tables and chairs set about the carport, and three children of about 8, 11, and 13 helping set up for the day’s hungry guests. We had seen many Merida cocina economicas in storefronts or set up on the street even, but this was the first we saw in a carport.
Steve and I looked at each other and Steve said, “I think we’ll make better shopping decisions on a full stomach”.
“Abierta?”, we asked. That was about the extent of our Spanish at that time.
“Si! Entrada”, the old woman said to our question…or something like that. My ear is still learning to separate long strings of gibberish into understandable words. She waved her arm for us to take a seat, so we assumed she was welcoming us in.
Upon sitting, the 11 year old girl set our table with knife, fork, and spoon. Salt and pepper and the ubiquitous pepper sauce were already on the table. This was a family affair; the older boy was carrying supplies out of the house for his mother at the grill while the little 8 year old watched us intently, seemingly trying to figure out what she might be able to do for the two gringos.
We each ordered half a chicken. We waited for our orders only the time it took for the woman at the grill to serve up half a chicken on each of two plates, along with freshly cut cabbage and tomatoes. No sooner did we start digging into the chicken than the little girl arrived a second time with two huge bowls of black beans swimming in the water it was cooked in. It was really like a bowl of black bean soup.
The chicken was plump and juicy, perfectly grilled, and so delicious. It was like no chicken I ever tasted before – they way you always think chicken should taste. The vegetables were garden-fresh, and the black bean soup was a perfect accompaniment.
We ate slowly, deliberately, and savored every bite.
Finishing up, we washed our hands at the little sink hung on the wall. The water went down the drain and into a bucket placed on the floor. We then returned to our table to relax and savor a great, simple meal. Then we were ready to head out to shop for… Uh, now why did we come to Dzitya?
Jordy and his partner, Steve, welcome guests to Casa Del Maya Bed & Breakfast in Merida, Mexico. Their six rooms offer pasta tile floors, talavera sinks, air conditioning, pool, full breakfast, and much more, all centrally located for easy access to Merida attractions and the Mayan ruin sites of Chichen Itza, Mayapan, Uxmal, Ek Balam, area cenotes, Celestun, Progreso, and many others. For information and reservations, visit www.CasaDelMaya.com.
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CasaDelMaya, February 14th, 2013
Each morning I wake at about 6:00 AM. No alarms, no impatient husband shoving me out of bed. I am eager to get downstairs, make coffee, and sit on the patio enjoying the peaceful serenity of a Merida morning.
There is nothing in the world I love more than a Merida morning. I sit with my coffee and computer, checking reservations for our B&B, catching up on overnight news. I pause as Marlon Brando, the neighbor’s white feline, whom a guest named Marlon Brando because of his ragged-looking face often torn up by all the fights he seems to get into, gingerly makes his way along the top of our property-line wall, a feat requiring no small amount of dexterity due to the many, broken bottles cemented into the top of the wall to keep “intruders” out of our neighbor’s yard. But Marlon is no intruder, just a local citizen looking for a challenge, or maybe an enticing bag of trash someone forgot to put inside a trash can.
Marlon Brando’s visit makes me think of another denizen of the neighborhood: a large, silver and green iguana who lives on the opposite side of our property. I always hope he will come by to sit on our wall in the sun, or sit on his perch on the top of our casita, or even brave our scary yard for a chance to sip from our pool. But with all the activity at our B&B in the late mornings, he seldom comes around, so it is a rare treat to see him up close. But in the afternoons we often see him taking in some rays on a high branch of a tree. The last time he was in the yard I grabbed the camera and made a video for our Facebook page of him trying to scurry away from me, finally running to the back and up the wall to safety.
My mind returns to the present. The pool is quiet; no pump shooting water through the filters and back out the two Ticul-stone cannons and into the pool with a constant splashing – only a gentle ripple now and then after a leaf slowly floats from the trees above to the calm, still water.
Suddenly there is a loud screeching of birds, and I know that the green parrots that live in the area have arrived for their morning visit. About a dozen of them flock from limb to limb, screaming to each other with a sound that affects me like fingernails on a chalkboard.
Then, as suddenly as it began, it is quiet again, and the sense of calm is even more profound than before. I mentally check off my tasks for the day: make breakfast, clean rooms, fill that crack in the rear wall. I pick up my empty cup and computer and start to make my way back inside, turning off the dim lights left on overnight for the guests to make their way to their rooms after late-night dinner or clubbing. I notice the leaves on the walkway and mentally add “sweep the walk” to my task list. Time to make breakfast, and greet another great day in Merida.
Jordy and his partner, Steve, welcome guests to Casa Del Maya Bed & Breakfast in Merida, Mexico. Their six rooms offer pasta tile floors, talavera sinks, air conditioning, pool, full breakfast, ticul gargolas, and much more. Casa Del Maya is centrally located for easy access to Merida attractions and the Mayan ruin sites of Chichen Itza, Mayapan, Uxmal, Ek Balam, area cenotes, Celestun, Progreso, and many others. For information and reservations, visit www.CasaDelMaya.com. 
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CasaDelMaya, January 17th, 2013
Every year Merida, Mexico hosts one of the largest and best Carnavals in the world. This year, from February 6 – 13, locals and travelers alike will put on their dancing shoes, their colorful costumes, and headdresses to enjoy internationally known artists from the worlds of music and dance, parades, and daily events that will help bring out your wild side. 
This year’s Carnaval, titled “Mérida Mística”, brings to the Yucatan internationally known artists to enthrall us with their music and dancing. From Salsa bands to traditional folk music, from lovely women and handsome men in traditional costumes presenting traditional Mexican dance to brightly costumed modern dancers, Carnaval week promises something for everyone. But music and dance are but one part of Carnaval. There are parades, from the opening parade with floats featuring school-age children, to the more adult-themed parties and parades later in the week. Men and women dress up in their most colorful costumes representing their long heritage in the Yucatan.
The week begins with the “Burning of the Bad Humor” in the main square, or zocalo. Each night will see a parade through town with a different theme. Thursday is the pre-school parade, followed on Friday by the Corso parade, and the week continues with the Fantasy Parade, Bachata Parade, Regional Parade, the Battle of the Flowers, and the week ends up with the Burning of Juan Carnaval. 
Don’t miss this great week of fun; come to Merida and let your hair down!
Jordy and his partner, Steve, welcome guests to Casa Del Maya Bed & Breakfast in Merida, Mexico. Their six rooms offer pasta tile floors, talavera sinks, air conditioning, pool, full breakfast, and much more, all centrally located for easy access to Merida attractions and the Mayan ruin sites of Chichen Itza, Mayapan, Uxmal, Ek Balam, area cenotes, Celestun, Progreso, and many others. For information and reservations, visit www.CasaDelMaya.com.
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CasaDelMaya, December 29th, 2012
People come to Merida for the historic architecture, the museums, galleries, and Mayan ruins sites. But Merida is also a very romantic destination. There are so many great ways to show your partner how you feel while visiting Merida. Here are a few suggestions.
1) Drive him to Celestun where you can lounge in a boat and while away the afternoon staring in awe at thousands of pink flamingoes. Then walk the backcountry boardwalk and discover new birds and aquatic animals while discovering new things about each other.
2) Rent bikes and ride from downtown Valladolid to the twin cenotes. Swim in both and then enjoy a leisurely lunch before your return ride as the sun sets behind you.
3) Walk up Paseo Montejo, the “Champs Elysees” of Merida. Sit in one of the many “lovers” chairs placed on the boulevard, then enjoy ice cream from one of the local stores.
4) Go on a “Frida” hunt. Try to find artwork by and about Frida Kahlo. There is even a restaurant dedicated to the great Mexican artist named, naturally, Frida’s.
5) Indulge her in her love of good food. Take her to one of the many “Cocina Economicas” in the city where you both will enjoy the best Yucateca food prepared by women who know their way around a kitchen.
6) Bring out the animal in him by taking him to the zoo. Actually, there are two in Merida, each with their own special appeal.
7) Go shopping and buy each other new wardrobes. From local shops selling handmade linen clothing to local malls offering more traditional wares, Merida has it all sewed up in the clothing line.
8) Buy each other Guayabera shirts, the “Mexican Wedding Shirt”, and then sit in a local café planning your wedding.
9) 
Enjoy Merida’s own Carvaval this year, February 6 – 13.
10) Sit by the pool at Casa Del Maya, just relaxing and enjoying each others’ company.
Jordy and his partner, Steve, welcome guests to Casa Del Maya Bed & Breakfast in Merida, Mexico. Their six rooms offer pasta tile floors, talavera sinks, air conditioning, pool, full breakfast, ticul gargolas, and much more. Casa Del Maya is centrally located for easy access to Merida attractions and the Mayan ruin sites of Chichen Itza, Mayapan, Uxmal, Ek Balam, area cenotes, Celestun, Progreso, and many others. For information and reservations, visit www.CasaDelMaya.com.
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CasaDelMaya, November 25th, 2012
Jose’s tienda from the street
Just an hour and a half drive from Merida is a small pueblo called Temozón. It’s proximation to the larger town of Valladolid makes it an ideal second stop on a day trip to this wonderfully beautiful area.
We first heard of Temozón through our Spanish teacher, Lulu. She said that if we wanted great hand-crafted furniture, this was the place to go. So off we went one day in search of the little town supposedly filled with wood artisans. We found the town just 10 kilometers north of Valladolid, less than two hours from our front door.
There is only one main road through Temozón, so you are sure to pass every carpenter’s shop in town. Some specialize in specific pieces, such as chairs, both rocking and otherwise. Others offer a host of pieces, from sofas, chairs, and side tables, to beds, wardrobes, dressers, and much more. Stop at every one because you will be constantly surprised at the variety of woods, styles, and finishes. The carpenter we chose to build all the furniture for our B&B will make anything, and do it beautifully.
Furniture awaiting its new owners
Jose has an open tienda on the East end of town. His strong, hand-finished furniture caught our eye from the road. Upon closer inspection we were excited to see the love and care he put into each piece. Jose uses mainly three types of wood: pine, cedar, and tzalam, a local hardwood with beautiful blonde streaks running through it. We had all our furniture made of tzalam, with a light brown finish.
As I said, Jose will make anything you desire; we gave him a picture of a desk and he copied it exactly. But he also has available many stunning pieces ready to go. We especially love his sofas and chairs; they exude a strength of character, yet have a wonderful delicate quality that you just have to see.
It may be a bit difficult to send furniture home, but we feel it will be well worth the effort. This is furniture your nieces and nephews (or children and grandchildren) will be enjoying for generations. And the cost of shipping it is far outweighed by the savings of the furniture itself. I daresay you could not find this furniture in the U.S. for many times the cost of it in Temozón.
Chairs, chairs, and more chairs
Jordy and his partner, Steve, welcome guests to Casa Del Maya Bed & Breakfast in Merida, Mexico. Their six rooms offer hand-crafted Mayan furniture, pasta tile floors, talavera sinks, air conditioning, pool, full breakfast, and much more, all centrally located for easy access to Merida attractions and the Mayan ruin sites of Chichen Itza, Mayapan, Uxmal, Ek Balam, area cenotes, Celestun, Progreso, and many others. For information and reservations, visit www.CasaDelMaya.com.
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CasaDelMaya, October 31st, 2012
Within an hour’s drive of Merida are many little towns dotting the Yucateca landscape that specialize in their own particular brand of hand-crafted items. In Ticul you will find wonderful ceramics of every design, shape, and size. Temozon streets are lined with bodegas selling stunning Mayan-inspired furniture in woods of pine, cedar, and Tsalam. And just 10 minutes outside Merida lies Dzitya, a sleepy little pueblo offering up works of sinks, fountains, gargolas, floor and wall tiles, statues, and more, all made from local stone.
Dzitya is close enough to Merida to be on a city bus route. So when Steve and I needed some items for our B&B we took a bus to Dzitya (six pesos – such a bargain!), got off on a corner just outside the town square, and began our search. Actually, we had lunch, first, but I’ll save that incredible experience for another time.
After lunch we walked to the town square, which is quite large for a town this size. We saw, maybe 2 dozen homes in the little village, and although I’m sure there are a few more, the size of the town square belies the small size of the overall town. In fact, the town square IS Dzitya. And although hardly a soul was around, don’t let the apparent lack of activity fool you. To many this dusty little pueblo is just another struggling Mexican village. But look deeper and you will find a treasure trove of goods and people.
Lined along the streets bordering the square is shop after shop with locals selling their wares. There are highly lacquered pieces in Tsalam, a beautiful local hardwood, and ceramics. But the town specializes in heavy local stonework.
There are three main types of stone used in Dzitya. Macedonia is a dense, white stone with a Jurassic-era look. We have seen this stone on floors and stairs and walls, and we have a sink made of Macedonia in one of our guestrooms. Coquina is a lustrous, marble-like stone used for virtually everything in Merida colonial homes. It has the look of some of the finest Italian marble, but at a price that makes it affordable on even the tightest of budgets. We purchased two coquina corner shelves for our own shower, and the total came to about $30.00 US. I almost felt guilty getting them for that price. I said almost.
Finally comes my favorite local stone, Ticul. Ticul is a red, dense stone. It will have variations of color throughout, often with streaks of deep-red or brown. Because it is so easily identifiable, and affordable, you see Ticul all over Merida: on stairs, floors, walls in bathrooms, kitchens, counter-tops, and building facades. Our pool fountain gargolas are Ticul.
Unlike in Italy, where the prices of stone and marble have risen to luxury level, these Yucateca stones are still rock-bottom cheap, which is why so many expats use them to build their new homes in Merida. All the shops will wrap and ship your items for you, so don’t be afraid of purchasing something for your own home.
Dzitya is a real rough gem of a town. And in September each year, in the town square, is held a huge crafts fair where you will see artisans offering everything imaginable made of wood, stone, and ceramics. It’s just another reason why people from the U.S. and all over the world are flocking to Merida.
Jordy and his partner, Steve, welcome guests to Casa Del Maya Bed & Breakfast in Merida, Mexico. Their six rooms offer pasta tile floors, talavera sinks, air conditioning, pool, full breakfast, ticul gargolas, and much more. Casa Del Maya is centrally located for easy access to Merida attractions and the Mayan ruin sites of Chichen Itza, Mayapan, Uxmal, Ek Balam, area cenotes, Celestun, Progreso, and many others. For information and reservations, visit www.CasaDelMaya.com.
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CasaDelMaya, October 4th, 2012
The Church of Santa Ana, on the corner as you cross over from Calle 60 to Paseo Montejo Boulevard
- The Mansion and Museum Quinta Montes Molina, located on Paseo Montejo, is still privately owned by the same family that has owned it for 100 years. It is open to the public and available for special events.
Looking for a relaxing place to see great architecture, roam colonial streets, eat wonderful local foods, and infuse yourself with local color? Then the city of Merida, in the state of Yucatan in Mexico, is just the place for you. Only one of the great ways to experience all these things is a weekly event that every visitor to Merida should experience at least once.
Each Sunday morning an incredible event takes place on the boulevard Paseo Montejo, the “Champs-Elysees” of Merida. Hundreds of locals and tourists alike bring their bicycles, or rent one right on the boulevard, and join families, singles, couples, and every other combination you can imagine, to enjoy a leisurely bike ride. The city of Merida closes down Calle 60 and Paseo Montejo for the weekly event, placing volunteers at every intersection to ensure safety. The ride begins at the Zocalo (main square) on Calle 60 at Calle 59 (continuing the fiesta that begins on Saturday), continues North to Calle 47, cuts east one block to Paseo Montejo, and continues about 2 additional kilometers. All along the way you will see water stations, children’s’ activities booths, dancing, exercising areas, music, and much more, all free. So even if you are not a bike rider, you can take a leisurely walk under canopied trees and stop for coffee and pastries, ice cream, or a full breakfast at one of the many, charming cafes along the boulevard.
You are sure to make many new friends, whether they be local ex-pats also out to enjoy the morning, Spanish-speaking locals and tourists, or families from all over this huge globe. You will marvel at the architecture of the many historic homes lining the boulevard, some of which are open to the public as museums and other public spaces. You’ll pick up a few new Spanish words, drop a few pounds, and gain new insight into what it might be like to live in this wonderful, historic city with its lovely, welcoming inhabitants.
Jordy and his partner, Steve, welcome guests to Casa Del Maya Bed & Breakfast in Merida, Mexico. Their six rooms offer pasta tile floors, talavera sinks, air conditioning, pool, full breakfast, and much more, all centrally located for easy access to Merida attractions and the Mayan ruin sites of Chichen Itza, Mayapan, Uxmal, Ek Balam, area cenotes, Celestun, Progreso, and many others. For information and reservations, visit www.CasaDelMaya.com.
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CasaDelMaya, September 23rd, 2012
A Day Trip to Ticul
By Jordy Hines
Chichen Itza, Mayapan, Dzibilchaltun, Ek Balam, Uxmal – these are only some of the must-see Mayan civilization sites one can visit on a day trip from Merida, on the wonderful peninsula state of Yucatan, Mexico. But what else is there to do for an excited traveler bent on seeing a bit more? Try a shopping/sightseeing trip to one of the many local towns within a couple hours of Merida where you can find many handcrafted items lovingly made by talented indigenous peoples, marvel at historical architecture, and take in the slow, steady pace of life in the Yucatan. Here we suggest a trip to the pottery and ceramic town of Ticul.
Just sixty miles and an hour and a half from Merida is the town of Ticul. You will find many small shops (tiendas) offering their own, hand-crafted ceramics and pottery. Begin your search in the heart of town, exploring the main square, with its many shops and food stands. Every little town in the Yucatan revolves around its own main square, sometimes called a Zócalo. (Did you bring your broom? No? Then I’m afraid you’ll have to walk.)
You will find shops offering clothing, ceramics, and shoes, shoes, shoes (and sandals). Pick up a piñata for your nephew or princess costume for your niece, pick out a pair of sandals for your kids, or a locally-made guayabera for your loved-one (and then wear it yourself when he’s not looking).
Now, I know this is supposed to be a shopping trip, but since you are in Ticul, you should see Iglesia de San Antonio de Padua, located just off the main square. Although looted on several occasions, the church retains some original touches, such as the stone statues of friars on both side entrances and a Black Christ altarpiece.
Also take note of the many Mayan statue reproductions in the medians and on many street corners. There is also a fascinating open-air market at the corner of Calles 23 and 28a. Check it out.
Grab an ice cream, or eat at one of the restaurants adjacent to the square. Then hop back in the car and head out highway 188 (Calle 23). After a few blocks you will begin seeing shop after shop of beautiful ceramics and pottery. Pick up a little ceramic butterfly, frog, or one of those ubiquitous iguanas. Looking for something more impressive? You will see pots, both gigantic and not-so-gigantic, fountains, birdbaths, and much more at a tienda just past Calle 36b, on the right, with “alfareria” (pottery) painted on the front. Further on is another alfareria, this one on the left and offering smaller, more delicately painted pottery. By the way, all the tiendas in Ticul will carefully wrap and ship your selections home, so don’t shy away from purchasing that huge Mayan god facemask you want for the rumpus room.
At this point (somewhere near Calle 38) you should just park the car, and with a bottle of water walk down Calle 23. There is store after store of imaginative, beautiful pieces of arts and crafts. You’ll want to spend an hour in each store, and easily could, but we have to keep moving.
On the right is a store, Chaa-Multun-Ka’t, with hanging ceramic pots and sconces. Next to that is Artesanias Decoración Maya, one of my favorite places, selling reproductions of Mayan statues and wall hangings. Pick one up and the family who owns the place will tell you exactly what Mayan god is represented and why they are important.
Two doors down is La Perla del Sur, another alfareria, and then a small, unnamed (at least last time I was there) shop with some of the most imaginatively designed sconces I have seen. The family’s son, who is about 20 years old, has begun to design his own pieces, and they are striking in color and design. Many of them are featured in our Bed & Breakfast in Merida.
Across the street is a ramshackle building with a black roof that seems to be falling in. But don’t let that deter you from checking out their brightly-colored sconces and pots of sunflower designs. The roof isn’t really falling in; it is simply made of a very inexpensive, flexible material and so is often used on local shop buildings.
If you are still up for more, walk a couple more blocks, or take the car to a brightly-colored, yellow lean-to on the left. The woman running this tienda has a large number of pots in more traditional designs and natural terracotta.
Now you will want to turn around and visit your favorites again to see exactly what pieces you cannot live without. Have them pack up your treasures and hop back in the car (after stopping for another bottle of water), and head back to your home base at Casa Del Maya Bed & Breakfast in Merida, where your extremely well-appointed hosts will be waiting to see what great taste you have. Take a dip in the pool while we drool over your art pieces, then grab a nap before heading out for a fun night on the town. But come home early and get some sleep, because tomorrow it’s off to Temozon for wonderful, hand-crafted furniture.
Jordy and his partner, Steve, welcome guests to Casa Del Maya Bed & Breakfast in Merida, Mexico. Their six rooms offer pasta tile floors, talavera sinks, air conditioning, pool, full breakfast, and much more, all centrally located for easy access to Merida attractions and the Mayan ruin sites of Chichen Itza, Mayapan, Uxmal, Ek Balam, area cenotes, Celestun, Progreso, and many others. For information and reservations, visit www.CasaDelMaya.com.
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