Carlos Melia: Eating Your Way Through San Miguel de Allende

Published Date Author: , September 17th, 2015

Carlos Melia - San Miguel de Allende

Eating your way through San Miguel de Allende is very easy and enjoyable task, EAT, and as much as you can. Mexico is such a heaven for foodies, and San Miguel de Allende is no exception. With the creations of Chefs like superstar Mexican Chef Enrique Olvera and former Presidential Chef Jose Bossuet leading the trend, I spent four days at this charming destination, eating my way through. And of course, eating never comes alone, I paired such amazing gourmet experiences, with local wines, artisanal beers and top class Tequilas and Mezcales.

La Posadita rooftop restaurant, has no celebrity Chef behind them, and with a very local traditional Mexican menu, and a lovely location overlooking Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel, capture my attention and raised to be my absolute favorite gourmet experience during my recent visit to San Miguel de Allende. Unpretentious, with friendly service and staff, eager to explain you every single dish.

Carlos Melia - San Miguel de AllendeSuch a marvelous night to seat out and enjoy their quiet and quaint atmosphere. Strongly recommend the Grilled Nopal with Ranchero Cheese and the Green Pozole with Chicken – a sort of stew/soup with meat, usually pork, chicken, turkey, pork rinds, chili peppers, and other seasonings and garnish such as cabbage, salsa and limes and/or lemons. This time I paired my choices with a marvelous Tamarindo Margarita.

MOXI by Chef Enrique Olvera at innovative and great small boutique hotel, Hotel Matilda. An obligated stop for any foodie. San Miguel de Allende is a bohemian town, where art and design define the identity and heart of this destination, Hotel Matilda is a great referent that embraces this concept with a very forward thinking. MOXI – meaning craving in Otomi dialect – is the superstar of San Miguel de Allende restaurant scene.

Enrique Olvera is Mexico’s globally celebrated chef who has received numerous awards and whose Mexico City restaurant, Pujol, is #17 on the San Pellegrino list of the world’s 50 best restaurants. At Moxi, he unites traditional Mexican dishes with the latest techniques and cosmopolitan concepts, creating a menu with a Mexican soul and an international palate. Chef Olvera’s Moxi has fired a reputation for Hotel Matilda as a culinary innovator and destination for gourmands and food lovers.

Carlos Melia - San Miguel de AllendeHere I went through a 4-Steps journey paired by Maitre Cristian Aguilera, who carefully curated a selection of local artisanal beers: Cervaza Clara Allende and Baja Black. Fantastic Mexican white wines: Casa Madero Sauvignon Blanc and Monte Xanic Chenin Blanc. And of course a glass of famed Tequila Casa Dragones and Mezcales: Amores and Beneva. Indoor and outdoor seating, welcomes guest for breakfast, lunch and dinner every night. My favorite dish, was the deconstructed Sweet corn tamal with sour cream and farmer cheese. After dinner, make sure to stop by the trendy bar Mui Bar with an obligate photo moment at their bathrooms by renown artist Spencer Tunick.

APERI Restaurant at Dos Casas Boutique Hotel by young Chef Mateo Salas. Aperi, Latin for “open” perfectly describes the restaurant’s vision and concept, featuring a unique culinary experience; food for the senses, prepared with the region’s freshest ingredients and the passion that characterizes chef Salas. A beautiful colonial home converted into a boutique hotel. Here, I enjoyed, a 7-coure lunch paired to perfection with local and international wines, in an intimate space that emerges from the perfect balance of sophistication and warmth, combining the true Mexican essence and the latest trends in design.

The degustation menu, began with a visit to the kitchen to meet the Chef ( for small groups, you may choose to have a upgraded gourmet experience at the Chef’s Table ). Rice Chicharron, Foie Gras with Jamaica Gel and Blue Fin Tuna over grilled watermelon, where some of the highlights, but the Smoked Betabel salad was my absolute favorite captivating all my senses. Special mention for another local wine, goes to the Vina Dolores Sauvignon Blanc from Ezequiel Montes, Queretaro. Who would have thought Mexico hosts and produces such amazing white wines.

Carlos Melia - San Miguel de AllendeA New Comer to be watched and tried is ZUMO Restaurant, which has opened its doors only a month ago, and already, by the hand of young Parisian Chef Gabriel Ferrant. The experience begins from the moment you drive to the restaurant, which is located out of the center of San Miguel de Allende, which will allow you to see the other face of this charming town.

Located on the third floor of mini-Boutique Hotel Casa Kali, its owners Vanessa and Stewart, along with Chef Gabriel Ferrat, welcomed me to a private dinning experience al fresco, enjoying privilege panoramic views of San Miguel de Allende. ZUMO brings to you local, fresh, sustainable and seasonal ingredients, hand selected daily. Menu changes weekly, make each visit and total new experience. Exclusive al fresco dinning room and bar. I was able to discover the culinary magic of Chef Gabriel Ferrant, with your reserved seat at the exhibition kitchen, as you see the sunset take over the stunning colonial backdrop, over a local cocktail or glass of wine. Special thanks to Vanessa, Stewart and of course Gabriel Ferrat, for opening the restaurant exclusively for me, and for being such amazing hosts. Truly an magical gourmet evening.

Traditional Mexican Breakfasts by former Presidential and renown Mexican Chef Jose Bossuet at Cafe Contento. What a fantastic way to begin your day, other than walking across town, by the main square and the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel, to the Bellas Artes and onward to Cafe Contento, for an outdoors true Mexican Breakfast. Their concept is Mexican Comfort Food, where you can enjoy a full menu at any given time of the day.

I enjoyed a lovely morning, seating with Chef Bossuet himself, learning about his vast international culinary experience, and his past as President Fox private chef, tasting some classics such us Potaje Sanmiguelense sun dry guajillo chill stew with nopal cactus leaf and chickpeas, served with cheese gordillas ( a type of local stuffed flat bread ). Of course I could not leave, without trying the Chicken Tamal with red Pipian sauce and pumpkin seeds.

Another lovely breakfast stop is Andanza Restaurant at my hotel, the Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada, where I enjoyed, my absolute favorite Mexican dish, Chicken Chilaquiles with green sauce.

Street Food as you walk along San Miguel de Allende is a must. And I made sure to try it more than once. Tamales on the go, are heavenly.

Looking for a charming coffee stop as you explore San Miguel de Allende. Well you should visit Biblioteca Publica and their quaint interior patio, where you will find Cafe Santa Ana. Enjoy a meal and a tasty coffee for a good cause. With your purchase you support to continue the educational programs they offer to children for free. Other options you should also try are: El Petit Fours and Cumpanio.

Art and design define San Miguel de Allende, from its Baroque/Neoclassical colonial heritage to avant-garde style. The epicenter of this artistic movement is no the streets, but perhaps centralized at Fabrica La Aurora, a must visit in town. There is a nice outdoor cafe and a restaurant – Food Factory you may enjoy during your visit.

My last night in San Miguel de Allende, I moved to the beautiful Rosewood San Miguel de Allende hotel. Unfortunately I was not able to try their restaurant, 1826 Restaurant, which I will keep as a pending for my next visit, but I did come to their rooftop bar for cocktails with breathtaking views of town. At Luna Rooftop Bar enjoy a cocktail and tapas over magnificent sunsets. Throughout the day and night, this al fresco setting presents breathtaking views of the iconic La Parroquia, spires, bell towers and rooftops across town.

Of course my farewell dinner had to take place at the Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada. Cocktails at the Blue Bar and Dinner at Andanza Restaurant, with great company. Artfully prepared dishes, Mexican tradition with contemporary flair, served in an elegant, colonial-style setting. Thank you Roseann and Giovanni for such a lovely evening.

As the night came along, my culinary journey to San Miguel Allende came to an end. A few places I was not able to try, but I will mention are: The Restaurant, La Parada Peruvian Restaurant, Nirvana for a Mexican/Thai fusion, Aguamiel and Tacos Don Felix for the so called best tacos in town. As you can see, San Miguel de Allende has a very select gourmet scene, so make sure to plan your stay accordingly to taste as many as you can.

By Carlos Melia – Full Story at the Carlos Melia Blog | Guanajuato Gay Travel Resources

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