A River Town: Discovering Northfield, Massachusetts and The Pioneer Valley

Author: scott, May 31st, 2010

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Northfield, Massachusetts lies at the intersection of Massachusetts, Vermont and New Hampshire on both sides of the majestic Connecticut River. Across the wide flood plain, the land rises to frame the town on the east and west with miles and miles of rolling hills and state forest. In the 17th century, the area was one of the earliest places English settlers explored after arriving here from Europe. Later, in the 19th century, the grand homes built by a family of local artisans created one of the most dramatic and classic streetscapes to be found anywhere in New England.

Centrally located literally in the heart of New England, Northfield, along with our neighboring towns of Bernardston and Gill, is an ideal base from which to experience the lively and scenic Pioneer Valley of Western Massachusetts. Like the Valley that surrounds it, Northfield’s assets are its history and architecture, agricultural heritage, outdoor recreational opportunities and a growing arts community.

Built largely between 1804 and 1830, the houses along Main Street prompt most people who drive through on Route 63 – a designated “Scenic Byway” – to remark “What a beautiful town!” Northfield’s position as a major railroad hub inspired popular 19th century evangelist Dwight L. Moody to build his school for young ladies here.

Moody drew thousands of visitors to his summer revival meetings on the hillside overlooking the river. Many of the wealthy industrialists he attracted built summer cottages here that are still owned by their descendents. Clustered in the woodlands behind his original campus, they formed an early country club of sorts known as “the Rustic Ridge,” with a pool and a golf course which survive to this day, and a grand hotel that eventually succumbed to old age.

The monuments to battles between the English and early Native inhabitants are remarkably well-preserved along Main Street, giving visitors a clear sense of the layout and challenges of the early settlement. A restored trail takes visitors a short hike up King Philip’s hill, reputed to be one of the famous sachem’s camps during the war he waged, and nearly won, against the English.

With Northfield as a base, history buffs can complete the picture of what life was like for the yeoman farmers who participated in the struggle to determine which European super power would control the Connecticut River Valley. As the Boston Globe recently noted, “Northfield opens windows for travelers to some rich Connecticut River history within half an hour’s drive.”

When the Northfield settlement was attacked during King Philip’s War, the settlers fell back to Deerfield, now the carefully preserved the site of the dramatic capture of over one hundred English villagers by combined native and French forces during the winter of 1704. Historic Deerfield, as it is now called, lies about twenty minutes south of Northfield and features a collection of early houses and two museums available to tour at one admission price – the Flynt Museum of Early American Life and the Pocumtuc Valley Memorial Association.

But, the Valley isn’t only about the past. While you’re in Deerfield, Magic Wings Butterfly Conservatory will banish the winter ‘blahs,’ and the Yankee Candle flagship store, with its candles, gardens and furnishings, provides hours of shopping and inspiration. Chandler’s Restaurant on the property wins recognition as “Best in the Valley” year after year.

Speaking of food, the area all around Northfield boasts some of the best eating outside Boston and New York, with an eclectic and plentiful mix of restaurants and a growing emphasis on farm-to-table ingredients. Varied and fabulous styles and traditions can be found on any street in Northampton or Brattleboro, and at one-of-a-kind bistros tucked away in tiny villages dotting the Valley.

For example, the popular and exquisite Night Kitchen restaurant is a pleasant drive from Northfield and located in an old book mill in Montague, Mass. that taunts would-be explorers with the slogan: “Books you don’t need in a place you can’t find.”

Just across the river from Northfield, and a couple of miles from Dwight Moody’s Northfield Mount Hermon School, is the Gill Tavern, which features a country contemporary style, an inventive menu and artisanal beers and ales.

Visitors can work up an appetite hiking the New England National Scenic Trail, the new name for the former Metacomet and Monadnock Trail that runs through Northfield and links Massachusetts to New Hampshire.

The Connecticut River and surrounding watershed offer fishing, boating, kayaking and birding accessible from several points including the Pauchaug Brook boat ramp on Route 63.

The privately run Northfield Mountain Recreation and Environmental Center features groomed trails for summer through winter sports, a riverfront picnic area and a narrated 90-minute boat cruise up and down the river through the dramatic French King gorge.

Crumpin Fox Golf Club is ranked among the top 100 small courses in the country. Gardeners can spend the better part of a day browsing Northfield’s three extensive garden centers and numerous farm stands. Northfield’s rich agricultural history is enhanced by a weekly farmers market, and the wonderful fall fairs that take place up and down the Valley and provide a yearly preamble to fall foliage season.

Some of the best are: the Franklin County Fair; the Keene, New Hampshire “Pumpkin Festival,” and the grand-daddy of all country fairs, the Big-E (or Eastern States Exposition) about 45-minutes away in Springfield.

Northfield’s considerable natural and man-made beauty fosters a lively arts community that offers special events throughout the year. “ArtsFest” is an annual outdoor art festival that takes place each year in early September.

The event features fine art and crafts from well-known and up-and-coming local artists, old-fashioned “fair food” and great live music.

Local merchants team up for special promotions throughout the year, offering tourists fine lodging at the Centennial House Bed and Breakfast, casual dining, open artist studios, locally-made gifts and recreational activities. Each December, they present “A Special Day in Northfield,” a holiday celebration featuring horse-drawn carriage and hayrides, strolling costumed carolers, shopping and craft-making, historical exhibits and seasonal foods.

Bucking the national trend, Northfield is a place on the way up. Small businesses are opening, the schools are top-rated and real estate prices are extremely attractive. In 2012, a new liberal arts college plans to open here.

Whether you begin your own ‘exploration’ of Northfield from points north, from Boston and Albany via Route 2, or up from Connecticut, New York and points south on Interstate 91, you will know immediately that you have entered a special place. The strikingly beautiful landscape, the range of recreational activities, and the area’s rich culture and history, coupled with a slower pace and country charm, are here to savor and enjoy again and again.

Centennial House Bed & Breakfast is a 17-room former estate dating back to the early 1800′s. It offers both individual queen and king rooms and two-room suites. All have private baths and come with the inn’s signature gourmet breakfasts that the Boston Globe recently said “kept us from thinking about lunch until 2 p.m. each day.” Aside from the elegant but un-fussy décor, what makes this B&B so special is the amount of public space available to guests. The entire first floor of the house and a large gazebo on the two and one half acre grounds are available for reading, relaxing and hanging out comfortably alone or with friend.

In the afternoon, innkeepers Joan and Steve Stoia welcome new guests with fresh chocolate chip cookies to enjoy with tea or lemonade. Active in Valley affairs for over 30 years, the Stoia’s are happy to design custom itineraries for to match their guests’ interests. Professional event organizers for many years, small weddings are their particular specialty.

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